ADVERTORIAL • August 2017
A true taste of Cornwall
World-renowned beaches, dramatic scenery, pounding surf… Cornwall is holiday nirvana. And, thanks to a fish-rich coastline and abundance of local produce, it has an outstanding culinary heritage too. Here are the Cornish delicacies that should be on every epicurean’s must-try list – and the perfect beers to wash them down with
The ale
Cornwall is experiencing a beer boom. Whether your tipple is a refreshing pint of pale ale, a bottle of rich, dark stout or a cold can of Cornish lager, you’re never far from a locally-brewed drop to quench your thirst.
If you only try one… St Austell Brewery - founded in 1851 and one of only 28 remaining family-owned breweries in the UK - combines barley grown in Cornwall, Cornish water and the very finest hops from around the world to create its impressive array of award-winning beers. Tribute is its flagship pale ale thanks to specially-sourced ingredients and a sympathetic brewing process – it’s light, hoppy, zesty and consistently delicious. You can also visit the brewery home in St Austell, south Cornwall, and get a behind-the-scenes look at where the quality beers are born. Enjoy a pint of Tribute in its heartland and witness the birth of St Austell Brewery’s latest innovative beers in the Small Batch Brewery at the centre of the brewing experience.
For a taste at home: Tribute is offered on select British Airways’ flights and in the global lounges, as well as being available in pubs and supermarkets across the UK.
The pasty
The Cornish pasty - known locally as an ‘oggy’ - is a D-shaped pastry parcel traditionally filled with beef, swede, potato and onion. Once the preserve of the 19th-century miner’s lunchbox, it has since earned ‘PGI’ status, which means only pasties made in Cornwall can boast the name.
If you only try one… Wander through any Cornish town or village and you’ll likely be treated to the scent of freshly-made pasties wafting though the air. With so many bakeries to choose from, it’s hard to pick a favourite. But if we had to choose one, it’d be Philps (pictured), who have been making pasties since 1958. Expect premium skirt steak and locally-sourced veggies, all wrapped in buttery shortcrust.
For a taste at home: Many of the larger Cornish bakeries offer a ‘pasties by post’ service, so you can order these parcels of deliciousness online and enjoy them from the comfort of your own sofa.
The beer match: Tribute is the perfect pairing. The Cornish pale ale is an easy-to-drink pint that leaves a lasting impression on the senses, making it the ideal accompaniment to a pasty.
The dairy
Renowned for its lush green pastures and subtropical climate, it comes as no surprise that Cornwall produces some of the richest, purest milk in the country. Wherever you turn, you’ll find a dairy farm selling specialist cheeses, buttercup yellow butter or spoon-lickingly delicious clotted cream.
If you only try one… Cornish cheeses (cow and goat) are all very different. The famous yarg, produced in Truro by Lynher Dairies, is wrapped in hand-picked nettles and has a delicate flavour; while the Cornish Blue - made on a farm on Bodmin Moor - is buttery and somewhat tangy. If you’ve more of a sweet tooth, the family-run Rodda’s of Cornwall has been crafting its world-famous clotted cream since 1890 and it is the essential ingredient for a traditional cream tea, complete with a pot of tea, fresh-from-the-oven scones and strawberry jam.
For a taste at home: Any UK cheese shop worth its salt will stock Cornish cheeses - and most do mail order. Both La Fromagerie and Paxton & Whitfield are exemplary.
The beer match: Cheese and beer complement each other brilliantly. With a complex blue cheese, for example, try Proper Job, St Austell’s celebrated IPA (Indian Pale Ale) - the cheese’s high salt content contrasts well with the beer’s intense and hoppy bite.
The seafood
Cornwall sits at a maritime crossroads with both warm and cooler ocean currents running through its waters, meaning it’s home to an enormous diversity of fish, shellfish and crustaceans. From mussels to mackerel, spider crab to squid, expect premium quality and a fresher-than-fresh taste.
If you only try one… From post-surf hangouts to the county’s finest eateries, there’s ample opportunity to sample the fruits of the sea. Chef Rick Stein is arguably the godfather of Cornish seaside dining, with his mini empire of fish restaurants, cafés and pubs. Book a table at his flagship, The Seafood Restaurant in Padstow (often called Padstein), for excellent service, a buzzy atmosphere and, of course, superlative cooking.
For a taste at home: Stein also runs a cookery school in Padstow (pictured), so if you want to impress your loved ones with such dishes as steamed crab with lemongrass or chargrilled red mullet with chilli salsa, don your apron and get cooking.
The beer match: Contrast is the key here; for example, a crisp cold lager, like St Austell’s Cornish lager Korev, is the ideal partner to a flavoursome fish curry, particularly if it’s got a kick.
Words: Harriet Cooper
This article has been tagged Advertorial, Culture