With food this fancy, it's no wonder Jason Atherton's Pollen Street Social is one of our chef's last supper spots

CHEF CONCIERGE • August 2019

The last supper: where British chefs eat

If you had to pick any place in Britain to eat your last morsel, where would it be? In a celebration of bucket-list-worthy British food, we asked the island’s best chefs this very question. Here’s what they said 

The Crab Shed, Isle of Wight
Says who: Simon Rogan, owner of L’Enclume, Roganic and Aulis
“It’d have to be The Crab Shed at Steephill Cove near Ventnor on the Isle of Wight, for its fresh fish and crab. I’ve been going there for years – it’s like stepping back in time to a pretty hidden cove with a sandy beach and rock pools. I love watching the fishermen unload their catch. I’d dine with my wife, Penny, who normally packs me up and sends me there when I’m stressed. If I had to go with anyone to watch the sun go down, with a nice glass of something, it would be her.”

The Wolseley, London
Says who: Ben Tish, chef and culinary director at The Stafford London
“No brainer: The Wolseley, in Mayfair. You can’t fail to feel special, even if you’re just popping in for breakfast. My wife and I have been eating here for years, and always come for a New Year’s Eve lunch with friends. When my family come down from up north, they can’t get their heads around just how good it is. It’s like going back to the 1920s. For my last meal I’d have the veal schnitzel, fries and fried egg (pictured below) – and Champagne.”

The Wolseley

Pollen Street Social, London
Says who: Atul Kochhar
, owner of Kanishka, Mayfair
“I’d dine at Pollen Street Social (pictured top of page). I may be biased because I’m a big fan of Jason Atherton, but I absolutely love it here. He has an intuitive way of cooking that knows how to make people smile, serving food that guests are used to in their everyday lives – but elevated, and that’s what I like about it. He does a massive play on the classic bacon sandwich, which is so, so good. I’d go with friends or family or even alone, but mostly I enjoy going with my wife.”

Gurnard’s Head, Cornwall
Says who: Skye Gyngell, owner of Spring at Somerset House
“I would have my last supper at The Gurnard’s Head in Cornwall (pictured below). The pub, with its simple, delicious food, epitomises everything I love about this beautiful county. Surrounded by moorland, there’s a raw beauty, especially when it’s stormy. Before or after lunch, there’s a lovely cliff walk that you can take down to the beach. The pub itself is cosy and unpretentious – there is always a roaring fire come summer or winter, and it feels like a beacon of cosiness when you find it.”

Gurnards Head

La Petite Maison, London
Says who: Tom Kitchin, owner of The Kitchin, Scran & Scallie, Castle Terrace, Southside Scran and The Bonnie Badger
“If I had to choose one place for my last supper it would be French restaurant La Petite Maison in Mayfair. I’ve been eating there for 10 years and it’s still my go-to whenever I’m in London. It’s great for people watching, and has huge windows that flood the restaurant with natural light. My last meal would be scallop carpaccio – it’s perfectly balanced with cranberries, almonds and capers – followed by pain perdu, which is the best one I’ve tried. I would, of course, be eating my supper with my wife Michaela, and my four children.”

Coombeshead Farm, Cornwall
Says who: Nathan Outlaw, owner of Restaurant Nathan Outlaw and Outlaw’s Fish Kitchen, and chef director of Siren, a new seafood restaurant at The Goring in London's Belgravia
“I’d visit Tom Adams and April Bloomfield at Coombeshead Farm (pictured below) in a tiny hamlet called Lewannick in Cornwall. A working farm on 66 acres of land, what they raise and grow makes up most of what’s served in the restaurant. They offer a tasting menu of whatever is available, with everything sustainably grown then served in relaxed surroundings. They also have wonderful sourdough and rye breads baked on the premises by Ben Glazer, who runs baking classes. Sunday lunch with all the trimmings is my favourite!”

Coombeshead Farm

Belmond Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons 
Says who: Michael Caines, chef patron at Lympstone Manor
I used to work at Le Manoir and so this would be a very nostalgic last meal for me; it’s the thing that inspired me to found my own country house hotel. Raymond Blanc has so many signature dishes; I’d go with the salmon tartare to start, then a suckling pig and his famous vegetable terrine. For dessert, he does a legendary café crème in a coffee cup. As it’s the end of the world, I’d love to let him to cook up something new, surrounded by my friends and family.  

The Hand and Flowers, Buckinghamshire
Says who: Paul Ainsworth, chef patron at Paul Ainsworth at No 6
“I’d want to be at my friend Tom Kerridge’s incredible pub, The Hand and Flowers (pictured below) with my family. I’d want the treacle-cured fillet of beef with chips – triple-cooked in duck fat and cut into cylinders. Dessert would be chocolate cake with muscovado ice cream. To drink I’d start with Camel Valley Rosé, then a pint of Offshore Pilsner from Sharp’s Brewery. I’m not massive on dessert wines, so with the chocolate cake I’d have a proper cup of tea. I don’t normally have sugar in my tea, but to hell with the expense, it’s the end of the world so I’m having a sugar!”

The Hand and Flowers

Home sweet home
Says who: Sat Bains, owner of Restaurant Sat Bains with Rooms
“The UK has amazing restaurants, but I could never choose anywhere for a last supper except my home, with my wife Amanda and our pet rabbit Junior. I’d go for roasted foie gras, something I had when I worked at Le Jardins de Données in Montpellier in 1999, with Banyuls syrup, candied apple, gingerbread and rocket. Then cote-de-boeuf on a hot grill, loads of caramelisation, salt and pepper. Dessert would be Heston Blumenthal’s incredibly complex Botrytis Cinerea from The Fat Duck. Could I recreate the 90-element dessert in my garden? I’ll get Heston to do it – he won’t be doing much!” 

This article has been tagged Food + Drink, Destination