Destinations • February 2014
Eight food destinations you need to know
If you’re feeling a bit ‘been there, eaten that’ on your travels, let our panel of truly ‘in-the-know’ foodies help you veer off the tired tourist track to their secret gastronomy capitals
The scene: China
Fuchsia Dunlop, cook and food-writer specialising in Chinese cuisine
Their secret: Chengdu is famous for hot and spicy food, laced with chilli and lip-tingling Sichuan pepper, but it’s still neglected by international visitors, despite being named Asia’s first UNESCO City of Gastronomy in 2010. My all-time favourite dishes include Zhong dumplings with chilli oil, garlic and spiced soy sauce; fish-fragrant aubergines, and steamed pork belly with glutinous rice and sweet bean paste. Try the street snacks at the Shunxing teahouse, and go for a spectacular banquet at Yu’s Family Kitchen.
The scene: Fusion
Thomasina Miers, cook, writer, television presenter and founder of Wahaca
Their secret: Chicago has a more downbeat cool than NYC; its small neighbourhood restaurants are original and exciting, and have some of the best playlists I’ve heard while eating. It’s also got the fusion thing nailed. My highlights were the Latin Korean Belly Shack in Wicker Park, where I tasted the most delicious Brussels sprouts with chorizo, lime butter and chilli salt. And a plate of crispy fried chicken, salmon and monkfish skins at Japanese-American restaurant Yusho in Avondale became one of my best eating moments of 2013.
The scene: Italian dining
Theo Randall, chef patron at Theo Randall at the InterContinental London
Their secret: The food in Verona is very underrated. There’s a tucked-away market at Piazza delle Erbe where you can buy the most wonderful selection of local vegetables. One of my favourite restaurants is Al Pompiere. The first thing you see is a wall of salumi (Italian cured meats). You choose what you want from the menu – there are probably 10 different regional variations – and eat it with wonderful pickled vegetables and bread. One of the most delicious things I’ve ever had.
The scene: British food
Marcus Wareing, chef patron of Marcus Wareing at The Berkeley in London
Their secret: I don’t go home to Southport very often, but when I do, I always eat at Bistrot Vérité. I only know about it because I lived there. The chef, Marc, is half French and his father used to have a fantastic bakery in the village. I admire that he’s kept it very close to his father’s roots, using local produce from the area. He even has the menu on a chalkboard, just like a bistro brasserie in France. The other great thing to try in Southport is potted shrimp. They still trade it on the beach.
The scene: Japan
Ross Shonhan, chef and owner of London ramen bar Bone Daddies
Their secret: Kyoto, home to the most enchanting and ancient restaurant setting, Hyotei. Some buildings have been here for 400 years. The food is kaiseki style, which is the traditional food of Kyoto – one bizarrely delightful dish I ate there was cod sperm and sea cucumber roe with hotaru ika (mini squid) marinated in vinegar. It’s so beautifully presented that it is almost a shame to eat it. The menu is super seasonal, so dishes might only be on the menu for a week, and even the crockery is changed to match the seasons.
The scene: Chinatowns
Chris Ying, editor-in-chief Lucky Peach magazine (@luckypeach)
Their secret: I’ll just throw this out there: the best Asian food outside of Asia is in Australia, specifically Sydney. There’s dim sum that gives Hong Kong a run for its money, along with a number of Cantonese seafood restaurants that make spectacular use of the country’s marine bounty. Golden Century is chief among them. Head in at a respectable hour for crab, lobster, abalone, and a startling – like, seriously, what in the world is going on here? – wine selection. Head in later, a few drinks deeper, for the late-night congee.
The scene: West Coast USA
Jon Hawkins, editor of Foodism magazine
Their secret: Though Portland gets the west coast foodie headlines, the Seattle dining scene has been quietly bubbling away – and comes without the former’s ‘hipster’ baggage. The Ballard neighbourhood is its axis, with dozens of restaurants that are home to innovative chefs making the most of the abundant local produce. Diners graze from place to place over the course of a night – try the Kickin’ Boot Whiskey Kitchen for house-smoked meat, and finish up with a Laphroaig milkshake at Hot Cakes.
The scene: Street food
Phil Shen, blogger, Behind the Food Carts (@behindfoodcarts)
Their secret: There are a lot of street food places around Chennai, especially on East Coast Road (ECR). Most dishes are vegetarian, and I found the best way to describe them when I got home was to compare them to American dishes. So pav bhaji reminded me of a Sloppy Joe – it’s a thick, potato-based vegetable stew served on a buttery toasted piece of bread. You’ll also find lots of chaat items (savoury snacks), such as dahi papdi chaat: a bit like nachos with its base of fried dough puris topped with a sweet yogurt, tamarind sauce and chutney.
This article has been tagged Food + Drink, Destination