FOOD • November 2017
10 Michelin-starred meals under £50
Who said that the world’s best meals come with a hefty price tag? A surprising number of top-rated restaurants actually offer reasonably priced set menus – if you know where (and when) to go, says food journalist Rachel Truman
21212, Edinburgh, Scotland
After opening his restaurant with rooms on Edinburgh’s sweeping crescent Royal Terrace in 2009, Paul Kitching went on almost immediately to gain a Michelin star and a reputation as one of Scotland’s boldest chefs. His playful attitude to food can now be enjoyed in great-value set lunches, on offer Tuesday to Friday, where you can choose between two (£28), three (£32) or four courses (£42).
Best bite: Menus change weekly, but expect lots of top-notch Scottish produce.
The Hand and Flowers, Marlow, UK
Getting a table at Tom Kerridge’s Buckinghamshire pub can be tricky now he’s a much-loved TV figure and has two Michelin stars. Dinner is an expensive affair, but go for lunch (midweek ideally) and for just £25 or £29.50 you can feast on two or three courses – a recent menu featured smoked haddock velouté with Granny Smith apple tortellini, chicken chasseur with tomato fondue and roasted shallot, and apricot savarin with Earl Grey syrup and salted-almond ice cream.
Best bite: Everything.
Nakajima, Tokyo, Japan
Want to feast on sashimi in a celebrated Tokyo restaurant, for 800 yen (just over £5)? The only catch is you need to like sardines – but these are some seriously special sardines. Expect to pay big yen in the evening, but go for lunch when chef-owner Sadaharu’s set menu is entirely devoted to the humble iwashi (sardine). Enjoy sardine sashimi, furai (breaded and deep fried), nimono (simmered in a sweet soy sauce), or yanagigawa (fried sardines cooked with eggs in a sweet soy sauce). All meals include rice, miso soup and pickles.
Best bite: The sashimi. Deliciously soft slivers of raw sardine with pickled ginger and seaweed.
Barrafina, London, UK
Get there at opening time to bag a table at the original Barrafina on Dean Street, which holds a Michelin star for its sensational tapas. It’s easy to get carried away and end up with a sizeable bill as you watch the chefs plate up a procession of drool-inducing dishes from the bar. But avoid the prime cuts and pricey seafood, stick to a few choice dishes and you can escape with a very reasonable bill indeed.
Best bite: The croquetas (£5.50) are sensational – especially the crab special.
Liao Fan Hong Kong Soya Sauce Chicken Rice and Noodle, Singapore
How did a humble hawker stall gain a coveted Michelin star? For just S$2 (and a fair bit of patience) you can discover why chef Chan Hon Meng’s famed version of Singapore’s ultimate comfort dish – Hainanese chicken and rice – is so noteworthy. Queues now snake around the food court since the stall was propelled into the international spotlight in 2016.
Best bite: Chicken rice, of course, although the chicken noodles and roasted pork rice are also memorable.
Tim Ho Wan, Hong Kong
It may have lost the ‘world’s most affordable Michelin star’ title to Singapore, but the exceptional dim sum at Tim Ho Wan is still incredible value. This tiny restaurant in Mongkok was awarded a star in 2010 and the world’s foodies came flocking for a taste of its dim sum mastery.
Best bite: The fluffy pork buns are the stars of the show.
Nix, New York, USA
Newcomer to the Michelin guide, Nix shows that vegetarian and vegan cooking can be creative, celebratory and star-worthy. On-trend chef John Fraser is passionate about bringing vegetables centre stage and does so with aplomb at this hyper-fashionable, little Greenwich Village restaurant. The best part? Dishes range between $6 and $18.
Best bite: The tandoor-cooked flatbreads with dips.
Álbora, Madrid, Spain
Head downstairs to the lively bar at this Madrid favourite – awarded a Michelin star in 2016 – to feast on chef David Garcia’s exceptional tapas. There are lots of well-priced traditional dishes to choose from (croquettes and black rice with squid noodles), as well as more modern ones (seabass ceviche and tuna tataki) that all come in under €15 a pop.
Best bite: The selection of Joselito jamón ibérico, although go easy as the oldest vintage comes with a hefty price tag.
Al’s Place, San Francisco, USA
Relaxed, assured and always packed, chef Aaron London’s offbeat restaurant in the Mission has won much acclaim, including a Michelin star. Dishes are seriously pretty and pack huge and unusual flavours, but meat is very much an aside. The fish-and-vegetable-centric menu bursts with delicious northern Californian produce. All dishes are under $20, but you’ll need to order a couple.
Best bite: Green pea curry with black lime-yellowtail and pickled strawberry.
Septime, Paris, France
A four-course tasting menu at a celebrated Michelin-starred restaurant in Paris for €42? Where do we sign up? Septime in the Faubourg Saint-Antoine area is a charming place to dine and Bertrand Grebaud’s cooking is flawless. For a taste of the chef’s inventive style and super-seasonal dishes, the lunch menu represents seriously good value.
Best bite: The wonderfully seasonal vegetables at play throughout the constantly changing menu.
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