Cosenza

ADVERTORIAL • November 2022

Five stunning road trips in Calabria

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Mary Novakovich

@mary_novakovich

Head south to Italy’s charming ‘toe’ and discover the best drives in Calabria. In this rugged mountainous region between two seas, you’ll come across tranquil national parks, ancient hilltop villages and some of Italy’s loveliest beaches

Catovaticano

Capo Vaticano is awash with coves and hidden beaches

Pizzo, Tropea and Capo Vaticano
Perched on a rocky headland above a sandy beach and the shimmering Tyrrhenian Sea, Pizzo instantly draws you to its lively Piazza della Repubblica and buzzing cafés. Once you’ve tasted the town’s signature pudding – tartufo di Pizzo, a giant globe of gelato with a sweet truffle lurking inside – carry on westwards to Calabria’s undeniably prettiest town. Tropea makes the jaw drop, its gravity-defying stone houses clinging to the steep cliff rising above the beach. To its west are the enchanting beaches of Capo Vaticano, each one more secluded than the next. Your inland drive back to Pizzo takes you to Vibo Valentia and its hulking Norman castle.

Catanzaro

The Catanzaro viaduct is a symbol of the city

Catanzaro to Locri
Like many of Calabria’s ancient settlements, its regional capital, Catanzaro, sits strategically on a hill. Drive downhill to the Ionian Sea to follow the coast road as it snakes south past one long sandy beach after another. Meander inland briefly to reach the hilltop village of Squillace – for centuries the centre of Calabria’s ceramics production – before heading back to the coast and the attractive seaside resorts of Caminia and Soverato. Calabria’s rich history as an ancient Greek settlement comes into full view when you reach the coastal village of Locri and the Greek ruins at the archaeological park and Locri Epizefiri.

Scilla

Scilla’s famous castle on a rock

Scilla, Reggio Calabria and Aspromonte National Park
Scilla’s wide sandy beach, pastel-shaded houses and imposing Castello Ruffo are the starting points for a mesmerising journey along the Tyrrhenian coast. Take the coast road to Reggio Calabria, stopping for a stroll along the Lungomare waterfront with views of Sicily straight ahead. Veer inland for a short detour to the fascinating hilltop village of Pentedattilo on Monte Calvario, whose five rocky peaks resemble giant fingers. When you reach the port of Melito di Porto Salvo, that’s your cue to follow the crazily twisting road into the mountainous wilds of the Aspromonte National Park, before heading back to Scilla via Melia along more hairpin bends.

Tyrrhenian coast road

The Tyrrhenian coast road passes through Tropea

Amantea to Praia da Mare
This northward journey along Calabria’s Tyrrhenian coast, known as the Riviera dei Cedri, takes you along a seemingly endless stretch of sandy and pebbly beaches and resorts on your left. But look right and you’ll spot tiny villages tucked away in zigzagging mountain roads, with the occasional hillside monastery or ancient fort. Stop at the colourful coastal town of Diamante, where the annual chilli pepper festival takes place and whose lanes are plastered with vivid street art. When you reach Praia a Mare, swap the car for a boat and explore the deep blue grottos of the Isola Dino nature reserve.

Cosenza

The gothic façade of Cosenza cathedral

Cosenza and Sila National Park
Before you set out from one of Calabria’s oldest cities, explore Cosenza’s hilly mediaeval heart – including its 11th-century duomo and Norman-Swabian castle built by the Saracens. Then make for the forests, lakes and mountains of the Sila National Park, stopping by peaceful Lago Cecita before losing yourself in the labyrinthine lanes of San Giovanni in Fiore. Pop into the town’s 12th-century abbey on your way to the serene waters of Lago Ampollino, where fishermen sit patiently on its shores. There’s more lakeside loveliness in store at Lago Arvo, where the tiny village and ski resort of Lorica doubles as a summer and winter playground.

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