The epic wine drives: Portugal

Our Master of Wine Tim Jackson knows where to find the world’s most scenic vineyards. Now, he’s sharing his most epic wine pilgrimages with you. First up is Portugal’s oldest demarcated wine region, as accessed from the country’s capital, Porto – a meandering journey that will take you along the Douro River and back to the city in time for a tipsy top-up.

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A Dionysus day trip

It’s a road trip to remember, no matter how much wine you’ll uncork on the other side: a 90-minute drive east from Porto, through all manner of dramatic landscapes, and you reach the vineyards of the Douro Valley – a certified UNESCO World Heritage Site. Here, banks of the winding Douro climb steeply from the river’s edge and are often terraced, allowing the vines to cling on to the vertiginous hillsides and creating a visual set of contours that leave a distinctive mark on the countryside. Many quintas – or wine farms – offer delicious tastings.

A bottle-top tip

Make sure to aim for one of the main towns, such as Peso da Régua (where you can visit the fantastic Douro Museum) or Pinhão (especially famous for its beautiful, blue-tiled train station). For one of the most picturesque drives possible, head in the direction from Peso da Régua following the main road to Pinhão, and beyond that glide along the winding banks of the Douro, where you can soak up that stunning scenery in all its glory. It really is a one-of-a-kind drive!

Stroll the sights in Porto

Porto is compact and very walkable, so I’d simply park up at your hotel and walk into its culture-packed centre. Classic sights include the Eiffel-influenced Ponte de Dom Luis I. This connects Porto on the north bank with the south bank — technically known as Vila Nova de Gaia — which is where all the port lodges are. For some of the worthiest excursions, try a guided tour of Caves Cálem and a trip to the newly opened World of Wine quarter.

Wine bar pilgrimage

The lodges themselves are ripe for a makeshift port crawl – along the way, grab a bite at the glass-roofed restaurant at Graham’s, Vinum, which I have a real soft spot for. Thanks to a bend in the river, this place has a particular vantage point that shows off some beautiful views back down to the Dom Luis I bridge, and the wines are, of course, superb. In Porto itself, I’m a big fan of Cantina 32, which has some good, local, fresh food and a very decent wine list.

Why this wine?

Portugal’s wines are mainly made from indigenous, distinctive grape varieties that have fantastic character, like the Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Loureiro or Encruzado. These are great assets for the country – wines that are simultaneously high quality and of their own style, which means there’s plenty of interest for a wine lover to discover. And, for most people, it will be an exciting discovery, since Portuguese wines are still relatively unknown to many!